A silk tufted rug – now what?

I was sent some photos of a relatively “new” type of product hitting the market – a tufted rug using silk as highlights.

Now…tufted rugs are of course not new to retail shops. I’m sure you’ve seen them, rugs with a material backing, like this:

Tufted rug - cloth backing.

Tufted rug - cloth backing.

Tufted rugs are what I refer to as FAKE rugs, because they are a cheaper, quicker way to create the look of a woven rug without the quality and longevity of a real woven rug.

Tufted rugs are essentially hooked rugs, looped into a cotton mesh, then latex is poured over the back to glue the fibers in place. They most of the time cover the back with a cloth, because the latex is ugly and can sometimes crumble or yellow the floor/carpeting underneath it. Then they shear off the top loops so it is straight fibers like a “real” rug.

Tufted rugs by and large are cheaply made, and have a life of several years, versus decades (or centuries) like quality hand woven wool rugs.

A real hand woven rug can take months - or years - to craft.

A real hand woven rug can take months - or years - to craft.

I am a fan of real rugs – WOVEN rugs. Especially wool rugs.

That said, most consumers do not know the difference, and many buy tufted rugs, so you need to know how to clean them.

Because tufted rugs have a lot of corners cut to allow them to sell for cheaper prices, you have a number of concerns:

1) The latex, if poor quality, can crumble and the face fibers can pull loose during vacuuming or cleaning.

2) The designs, if stenciling is used that is INK, can bleed out when wet and wick up to the top (this is a manufacturing flaw, because they should NOT be using ink to do this).

3) The latex, if it has gone bad and soured, can create a HORRIBLE odor (smells like a cross between dirty socks and rubber) that will get WORSE with any moisture from cleaning. If the rug is new, and smells, tell your client to RETURN the rug immediately to exchange for another one or to get their money back. This is flawed merchandise.

4) Because of the latex construction, these rugs can take up to 4 times as long to dry as woven rugs do. So you need to boost air movement and dehumification to boost your drying results for tufted rugs.

There are some other issues, but those are the biggies.

And I don’t want to imply ALL tufted rugs are crummy. There are some high-end, very nice tufted rugs, for example Edward Field’s rugs are VERY expensive wool tufted rugs that are high quality.

Back to my story… I was sent a photo of a TUFTED rug with wool face fibers, but also SILK highlights throughout it. And the cleaner wanted to know any tips or concerns he should have. Here’s two photos of the rug in question:

Wool and silk tufted rug - front view

Wool and silk tufted rug - front view

Wool and silk tufted rug - back corner

Wool and silk tufted rug - back corner

Now, considering this is a tufted rug, the odds of the highlights being good quality silk are not high. In fact, it is likely rayon or viscose or mercerized cotton (all used as artificial silk).

To determine if it is real silk versus fake silk, you take a tuft from the rug (use tweezers) and drop it in a small cup of fresh Chlorox bleach.

If it is real silk, it will begin to bubble and slowly dissolve.

If it is fake silk (mercerized cotton, or rayon/viscose which is cotton by-products), it will do nothing. By the way, rayon/viscose is the WORST fiber on the planet for rugs.

There are many high quality rugs from Persia, and China, that are hand woven wool oriental rugs with silk highlights around the floral designs. They are beautiful.

Silk is a natural protein fiber, like wool, and in these cases where the amount of silk is not large, you can follow the same guidelines you do for cleaning wool and safely clean the silk as well. Same shampoo, same dye stabilizing solutions, same vinegar rinse to remove the residue.

One difference is that the silk will get matted and stiff when fully dried, and this requires some grooming to loosen those fibers up again. Very slow hand brushing is required (similar to the grooming needed for velvet when it is cleaned, except you use a hand brush instead of a carding brush). This additional time needed is why it usually costs more to clean silk rugs than wool rugs, because more time is required. (By the way, grooming is required for FAKE silk also, so even cheap viscose rugs cost more to clean than wool rugs because it takes more time.)

With this tufted rug in particular, because these rugs are made quickly and not with the highest quality ingredients, I would pre-inspect for a few things. I would want to know: are the dyes colorfast? are the fibers strong or do they pull away easily? is there any stenciling? is the silk actually RAYON? is there any latex strong odor?

I would test the dyes. If they test colorfast, and the rug is fairly soiled, then I would wash the rug. Give it a bath.

If the dyes test as fugitive, then I would surface clean the rug with an upholstery tool section by section carefully, to clean it. I would use an Airpath air mover to speed dry.

I would test the fiber strength. If they test strong, and the rug is fairly soiled, then I would wash the rug.

If they test weak (easily pull away from the rug), then I would surface clean it with the upholstery tool, and if needed, place a screen over the rug sections as I clean them to keep fibers from being pulled away during extraction strokes.

I would inspect for stenciling. If I see none when I grin open the fibers to look, then I would wash the rug.

If I do see stenciling, and the rug is fairly soiled, I would STILL wash it… because the rug is dark and so ink bleeding out will not be visible on the front, but I would let the client know ink marks will show on the backing material. (Most clients don’t care what the back of the rug looks like, and I always prefer to give rugs a bath versus surface cleaning because it is the difference between taking a real bath or having a sponge bath.) Just in case the ink might bleed into the white silk highlights, I would use an Airpath to speed dry it.

I would test to see if the highlight fibers are RAYON instead of silk. If they are in fact rayon, then I know I need to be careful about scrubbing the rug, and to be extra careful when grooming after it’s dry. Rayon is a very weak fiber, and will break apart with even the gentlest cleaning.

I would pre-inspect for the horrible odor found in some tufted rugs. If the rug has that odor I would NOT CLEAN IT. This is a manufacturing flaw, tell the client to return it to the store they bought it at.

As long as you are VERY good at pre-inspection, and VERY good at carefully cleaning a rug, this should not be a problem rug to clean.

If you have any questions for me on this rug or others, please post them in the COMMENTS.

Thank you for reading the Rug Chick blog, I am always happy to see so many come to visit me here.

:)

- Lisa

Rug Repair Training – You interested?

Hello Rug Chick readers!

I’ve been getting a few questions about rug repair, and my mother Kate and I recently spoke at the San Diego Weavers Guild meeting speaking specifically to rug repairs and our philosophies on them.

Here’s a simple little rug repair of field wear. Not reweaving, but selective embroidery stitching (to protect the original foundation fibers) and a little dye work to blend it in.

Field wear in an older Hamadan rug.

Field wear in an older Hamadan rug.

Tada! The Hamadan gets a facelift!

Tada! The Hamadan gets a facelift!

Several years ago we had a few sold-out hands-on rug repair clinics to train the basics of rug maintenance and specialty repairs. Not reweaving and reknotting rugs, but the most requested repairs: ends, sides, and field wear work (including patches).

After our presentation at this workshop we wondered – is it time to have some more Rug Repair Workshops?

So – if you are interested, let me know by posting down below in the COMMENTS. If there is enough interest then we will work together a curriculum, set some dates at our rug facility in San Diego, and let you know how to register.

Enjoy your weekend!

- Lisa

LIVE Rug Workshop with the Rug Chick!

Okay all you Professional Cleaners out there… if you want to learn from ME, here’s your chance!

Fringe cleaning shot

August 6-7 in Las Vegas at the Piranha Marketing Specialty Cleaning & Restoration Symposium. There are about a dozen seats left, so call 480-858-0008 and ask for Victoria. She will give you the details.

Jump on it, we are going to sell out… I didn’t even have to mail out a promotion to get this one sold, which is very flattering. :-)

Here’s what’s really COOL about this event. I am team training with the one and only Jim Pemberton, who is the “guru” of fine fabric upholstery.  So you will learn how to handle investment rugs, as well as investment upholstery.

I don’t travel to teach very often with all of the other work on my plate… so when I do it, I do it BIG.  And Jim has never taught out in the “west” – so this will be a big deal for attendees, getting training from instructors who have actually run successful cleaning operations, and not just read about them in a book somewhere.

Plus, we are controversial… and a lot of FUN! Why have a business if you can’t have fun at it…?

Everyone coming to this workshop is going to be overwhelmed by the amount that they walk away KNOWING, not just hearing. We do not teach from a book, we teach from experience, and to make sure you know not only what to do but why.

Hope a few of my Rug Chick readers get in before it closes - I’d love to meet you in person!

- Lisa

P.S. The workshop is worth 2 IICRC continuing education credits, in case you need them.

The care and feeding of Karastan rugs.

Karastan has always been known as a provider of high-quality machine woven wool rugs that replicate many classic Persian oriental rug designs.

Woven in America, made of high quality materials and construction. I’ve seen Karastans from the 1930′s still in very good condition.  In fact, we had an older one come through our shop a few weeks ago, and it had an interesting – and outdated – care tag on the back.  Right here:

Karastan rug care tag - be careful!

Karastan rug care tag - be careful!

Here’s a blog I wrote over on our San Diego Rug Cleaning Company rug repair blog - with a point by point blow of the tag in question.

As Karastan has begun importing product from China, you can no longer say that it represents high quality in machine made product. For some unknown reason they have decided to create some blended rugs with wool and viscose, and as all frequent readers of The Rug Chick blog know – viscose is the worst rug fiber to ever choose for your home.

When you read the label description, let me know, was there anything in it that you were also surprised to see in print as “recommended instructions”? Am I the only one surprised?

- Lisa

P.S.  Heads up – rug cleaning workshop upcoming on August 6-7 - get your seat before it SELLS OUT!

Rug Reminder: Viscose rugs are garbage.

I’ve been getting a lot of questions lately about viscose (aka rayon, faux silk, or Art Silk) rugs from rug cleaners, and also consumers looking to buy some new rugs.

Yes viscose is MUCH cheaper than silk – that’s because you are getting what you pay for.

Looks good, but not for long.

Looks good, but not for long.

I’ve made posts before about the negatives of buying or cleaning a viscose rug.

The fiber is not just kinda weak – it is VERY weak.  Spill on it, and scrub it trying to clean it up, you will permanently distort and damage the fibers.

It likes to YELLOW on you. Get it wet, just with water, and you will have a water mark that ends up looking like a big pet urine puddle. (This is because rayon is a bunch of cellulose by-products, mish-mashed together and heavily chemically process to make it look shiny, and it yellows when wet.)

It likes to BLEED on you. The dyes are not strong. Ever try to clean one of these on your own at home, because it looks easy to clean, and you will create a soup of dyes mingled together if you’re not careful.

And… it looks worse after every year of foot traffic, and after every cleaning.  Why? Because you can’t scrub it much without distortion or damage. Think about something you have that is cotton (a stronger version of rayon), like perhaps some socks. They’ve gotten dirty from use, and then you can only wash them by gently soaking them in a cleaning solution, and not being allowed to scrub to try to get the soil loose, and not allowed to use hot water to help remove it (because it would make it come apart more).

How clean could you get those socks? Would you ever be able to wear them again? Probably not.

So you have viscose rugs, with feet, shoes, and paws walking on it – and the contaminants brought in from those sources – and you cannot properly and thoroughly clean it because it’s such an inferior fiber it can’t hold up to proper cleaning over time.

You literally buy a rug, when it’s viscose, that is disposable. It will look good for a short period of time, and will age quickly and will be in the landfill, or given away to Goodwill, in a few years.

So, why bother?

A wool rug will last you decades, and some for centuries, if you get a quality one. There is no better rug fiber to buy than wool, for lots of reasons I’m written about in prior posts.

Viscose and rayon may be cheap… but even “cheap” – it’s not worth it. You are wasting your hard earned money.

Just want to make sure everyone is clear on this. :)

- Lisa

A few things to know about Tapestries.

Some of the most beautiful pieces that come through our rug shop are antique tapestries.  Like this one:

European tapestry with silk highlights.

European tapestry with silk highlights.

These are vibrant, elegant pictorial pieces. For some close up shots of this particular tapestry you can see a post over on my mother’s rug repair blog (this was in for cleaning and some minor repairs).

The best process for cleaning a tapestry, as with any natural fiber textile or fabric, is having it washed by a rug care professional. You need to know what solutions to use, how much water to use, how much agitation you can safely use, and have the facility to properly dry the piece.

Because there are so few rug specialists who can handle pieces like these, many times owners of tapestries will have them cleaned using dry cleaning solvents, which can leave residue behind that yellows them over time. We often receive tapestries that look dull and lifeless, and after a wash removes all of that built-up residue they spring back to life (like the one in the photo for this post).

With tapestries woven with silk as highlights, these areas can split and deteriorate with age, so you need to be particularly careful in inspecting the strength of the piece before any work is done.

If you are a rug cleaner who has not had experience with tapestries, and have one come to you, you cannot treat this as you would any oriental rug. Some of these tapestries can be incredibly valuable, and using the wrong solutions, methods, and tools can create damage – especially if it is a tapestry that is several hundred years old.

If you get a piece in and are not sure what to do, find a local rug cleaning plant to refer the wash to who has experience with these particular pieces. You can also email me photos and I can help you locate the right place to care for it. rugchick@gmail.com

These are beautiful, valuable textiles… be sure you care for them properly.

- Lisa

Rug Weaving – Sharing the Art and History

In this day of disposable products everywhere you look, there is reason to have deep admiration and appreciation for anything that is hand crafted.

Many of these crafts and arts are dying off. So when those who LOVE handmade items get together, there is an intensity, energy, and passion that you don’t find many places.

Those who learn a bit about hand woven rugs, and know how they are woven, one knot at a time, generally LOVE them. I know I do.

Loom used to hand weave a rug - one knot at a time.

Loom used to hand weave a rug - one knot at a time.

A 9×12 rug can take three weavers working 6 days a week, ten hours a day, over a year to weave a hand-knotted rug. That is a piece of someone’s life you have on the floor. A piece of their heart and soul. And that doesn’t even take into consideration the shearing of the wool, dyeing of the wool, spinning of the wool, before they even begin to weave the rug.

My mother Kate Blatchford  and I had the pleasure of being featured presenters to a recent meeting of the Palomar Weavers Guild – a group of fabric, textile, and dyeing experts. My mother Kate is the founder of our San Diego Rug Cleaning Company, and she and my brother David have launched a blog dedicated to rug repairs.

Here is me and mom at the weavers event:

Kate Blatchford talking with members.

Kate Blatchford talking with members.

Here I am speaking with some weaving guild members.

Here I am speaking with some weaving guild members.

We also hosted a meeting at our San Diego Rug Cleaning Company plant, and I welcomed industry professionals from the local Carpet & Fabricare Institute chapter to learn about rugs in the rug repair section of our facility.

Exclusive rug workshop for local CFI members in San Diego.

Exclusive workshop for local CFI members in our repair wing of our facility.

There are not many resources out there for those in the general cleaning industry to learn about rug care from those who actually DO the craft.

I have not conducted full multi-day rug cleaning clinics for many years… but this year I am planning to do a number of them.  Some for those professional carpet cleaners and restorers who want to learn the craft properly (and how to find the right clients to clean for)… and some other workshops for consumers who are interested in learning more about the art and history of rugs, and also what rugs to absolutely buy, and which ones to run away from.  The good, the bad, and the ugly in the rug world.

Opt-in to my Rug Chick updates list, and you’ll get first notification of workshops coming across the US this year. They will be small, and extremely in-depth, and they will fill up very fast.

In the meantime, any questions you have about rugs, or topics you would like to see covered here on the Rug Chick blog – please post them in the comments. I’d love to know what you’d like to learn more about.

- Lisa

Why do some wool rugs fade?

Certain rugs – especially those from China – are given a strong chemical washing using chlorine bleach (which DISSOLVES wool fibers) in order to make the rug more appealing to buyers. It makes the wool cuticles smoother, and as a result they reflect more light and appear shinier and silkier. They also are softer to the touch as a result.

But- if the process is too aggressive, it can make these rugs EXTREMELY sensitive to permanent stains from spills (especially acid spills), to loss of color during spot cleaning, and also fading and total loss of color if placed in an improper setting (direct sunlight) or improperly cleaned (being cleaned in the home).

Here is a Chinese rug that was cleaned improperly with aggressive cleaning agents and dried in direct sunlight (a horrible double whammy):

This blue rug has faded to beige from improper cleaning.

This blue rug has faded to beige from improper cleaning.

Many rugs, when you grin open the fibers, if they are susceptible to fading you will see a distinct difference in the base of the fibers to the tips.  The base will be DARK, and the tips will be LIGHTER. Almost frosted.

What you need to know about these rugs are that they are more susceptible to permanent staining because the fibers are already weakened by this chemical processing. This does not mean that the rug will not last you a hundred years (wool is by far the BEST fiber to use for a rug) – it simply means you cannot grab an over-the-counter spot remover to use on these rugs, they will cause a loss of color that will be MUCH worse than the original spill was.

While we are talking about over-the-counter products, you want to make sure you NEVER use these on any wool oriental rugs, or other natural fiber rugs (silk or cotton).  These chemicals are formulated for synthetic wall-to-wall carpeting and are much too aggressive for natural fiber rugs.  Folex, Resolve, Oxyclean.

Even Woolite, when applied directly to certain wool rugs, will bleach out colors or cause discoloration that is not correctable due to some optical brighteners that are used in their formulation.  I find customers tend to not dilute it when they use it, and it almost always created dye damage as a result of a panicked over-use.

Many rugs are chemically washed – as are many fabrics and other natural fiber objects we use daily.  You just want to be able to point out which ones may be a problem in terms of color loss and fade from sun.

Gentle, proper washing of wool rugs does not fade a rug. 

What fades a rug is direct sunlight in a room, or direct sunlight drying of a rug being cleaner.  

What fades a rug is improper choice of cleaning solutions – using the same chemicals from your wall-to-wall synthetic cleaning on wool rug. 

Or what fades rugs is cleaning them in the home and as a result leaving cleaning chemical residue in those fibers afterwards because you are not washing the rug and rinsing those fibers clean.

Those are situations that contribute to further and faster fading of a rug.

- Lisa

Rug To Run From: Viscose Rugs!

Real rugs (hand woven oriental and occidental rugs) are truly pieces of hand craftsmanship to showcase in your home.

They are a piece of a weaver’s life that you get to enjoy. A piece of art that will live centuries (if it is properly cared for).

Commodity rugs are mass produced today to feed a need of the fact that many people have hard floors in their homes, and they want a nice looking area rug, but they do not want to pay a fortune for it.

As with anything produced today, there can be items that are truly a great value, and others that are not worth your hard earned money. And viscose rugs are one of these areas where the great deal is just not worth it.

Viscose (also known as rayon) is in my opinion one of the absolute worst fibers to ever choose to use in something that people will walk on. Here are just a few reasons why:

Rayon/viscose is a weak fiber that distorts and breaks.

Rayon/viscose is a weak fiber that distorts and breaks.

In strength tests, wool fibers can be bent up to 10,000 times before it breaks. Silk is also very strong at 2,000.

What is rayon? 70.

Yes 70. So as you can guess, walking on it becomes quite stressful for a viscose rug. Also, washing the rug (where you are required to do a little scrubbing) can be very stressful.

Rayon/viscose, because it is made from cotton by-products and wood pulp fibers, tends to show soil very quickly. It also yellows with time and can have a yellow/brown cast when it gets wet. (If you are a professional rug cleaner, you will want to give the rug a vinegar rinse, and dry face down after water removal so that you can lessen this browning and wick any that occurs to the back side of the rug.)

Another weakness of viscose rugs is the dye quality. They easily bleed.

Viscose rugs have dyes that are rarely colorfast.

Viscose rugs have dyes that are rarely colorfast.

In this case, a cold water flood in a home resulted in these dyes migrating all throughout this viscose rug. This is not reversible.

A flood, improper cleaning, or even a simple spill can bleed viscose rug dyes.

A flood, improper cleaning, or even a simple spill can bleed viscose rug dyes.

Why would manufacturers use a fiber so unsuitable for a rug in their inventory?

Simple. Because it is CHEAP.

They want the look of silk, but they do not want to actually use silk. They turn away a far superior fiber that will last a century, and exchange it for one that might have one solid year of looking good.

For professional rug cleaners, they are trained to identify rayon/viscose rugs and to run from them. They are one of the few rugs that end up looking worse after cleaning than better. They distort, the dyes can bleed, they fade, and they look shaggy over time.

For rug buyers, if you want the look of silk, I would suggest seeking out a lower grade silk rug over anything made of rayon or viscose. The taller the face fiber height, the lesser quality a silk rug. High quality silk rugs have a high knot count and a very low nap. Here is a very nice Qum silk rug, woven in Iran.

If you want the look of silk, then buy a real silk rug.

If you want the look of silk, then buy a real silk rug.

Viscose rugs are what we in the industry label as “disposable rugs” because they have a short life under normal foot traffic, and then they end up in the landfill and you have to go buy another one.

If all you want is a disposable rug, then go get one. They are cheap. But you can also find some great deals on wool rugs, which are fantastic for the floor and will not give you any of the headaches that viscose does. And they will last you a much, MUCH longer time.

- Lisa

What I Want From Santa!

A Dri-Eaz Christmas!

Only a professional cleaner will think this is funny (and true!) – this is some of the best equipment in our industry for drying. If I’m good this year maybe Santa will make my tree look like this! :)

Had the chance to stop through Nashville after my Canada trip, and on my way to Phoenix.  I think I have Santa’s route this winter!  Stopped by the Nashville training center for Dri-eaz, and saw their little holiday display and just had to snap a photo.

It is going to be a COLD and WET and SNOWY season… make sure you have the best equipment out there to get the floods handled, and get those homes and those rugs dry as well.

Stay warm & dry!

- Lisa

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