A silk tufted rug – now what?

I was sent some photos of a relatively “new” type of product hitting the market – a tufted rug using silk as highlights.

Now…tufted rugs are of course not new to retail shops. I’m sure you’ve seen them, rugs with a material backing, like this:

Tufted rug - cloth backing.

Tufted rug - cloth backing.

Tufted rugs are what I refer to as FAKE rugs, because they are a cheaper, quicker way to create the look of a woven rug without the quality and longevity of a real woven rug.

Tufted rugs are essentially hooked rugs, looped into a cotton mesh, then latex is poured over the back to glue the fibers in place. They most of the time cover the back with a cloth, because the latex is ugly and can sometimes crumble or yellow the floor/carpeting underneath it. Then they shear off the top loops so it is straight fibers like a “real” rug.

Tufted rugs by and large are cheaply made, and have a life of several years, versus decades (or centuries) like quality hand woven wool rugs.

A real hand woven rug can take months - or years - to craft.

A real hand woven rug can take months - or years - to craft.

I am a fan of real rugs – WOVEN rugs. Especially wool rugs.

That said, most consumers do not know the difference, and many buy tufted rugs, so you need to know how to clean them.

Because tufted rugs have a lot of corners cut to allow them to sell for cheaper prices, you have a number of concerns:

1) The latex, if poor quality, can crumble and the face fibers can pull loose during vacuuming or cleaning.

2) The designs, if stenciling is used that is INK, can bleed out when wet and wick up to the top (this is a manufacturing flaw, because they should NOT be using ink to do this).

3) The latex, if it has gone bad and soured, can create a HORRIBLE odor (smells like a cross between dirty socks and rubber) that will get WORSE with any moisture from cleaning. If the rug is new, and smells, tell your client to RETURN the rug immediately to exchange for another one or to get their money back. This is flawed merchandise.

4) Because of the latex construction, these rugs can take up to 4 times as long to dry as woven rugs do. So you need to boost air movement and dehumification to boost your drying results for tufted rugs.

There are some other issues, but those are the biggies.

And I don’t want to imply ALL tufted rugs are crummy. There are some high-end, very nice tufted rugs, for example Edward Field’s rugs are VERY expensive wool tufted rugs that are high quality.

Back to my story… I was sent a photo of a TUFTED rug with wool face fibers, but also SILK highlights throughout it. And the cleaner wanted to know any tips or concerns he should have. Here’s two photos of the rug in question:

Wool and silk tufted rug - front view

Wool and silk tufted rug - front view

Wool and silk tufted rug - back corner

Wool and silk tufted rug - back corner

Now, considering this is a tufted rug, the odds of the highlights being good quality silk are not high. In fact, it is likely rayon or viscose or mercerized cotton (all used as artificial silk).

To determine if it is real silk versus fake silk, you take a tuft from the rug (use tweezers) and drop it in a small cup of fresh Chlorox bleach.

If it is real silk, it will begin to bubble and slowly dissolve.

If it is fake silk (mercerized cotton, or rayon/viscose which is cotton by-products), it will do nothing. By the way, rayon/viscose is the WORST fiber on the planet for rugs.

There are many high quality rugs from Persia, and China, that are hand woven wool oriental rugs with silk highlights around the floral designs. They are beautiful.

Silk is a natural protein fiber, like wool, and in these cases where the amount of silk is not large, you can follow the same guidelines you do for cleaning wool and safely clean the silk as well. Same shampoo, same dye stabilizing solutions, same vinegar rinse to remove the residue.

One difference is that the silk will get matted and stiff when fully dried, and this requires some grooming to loosen those fibers up again. Very slow hand brushing is required (similar to the grooming needed for velvet when it is cleaned, except you use a hand brush instead of a carding brush). This additional time needed is why it usually costs more to clean silk rugs than wool rugs, because more time is required. (By the way, grooming is required for FAKE silk also, so even cheap viscose rugs cost more to clean than wool rugs because it takes more time.)

With this tufted rug in particular, because these rugs are made quickly and not with the highest quality ingredients, I would pre-inspect for a few things. I would want to know: are the dyes colorfast? are the fibers strong or do they pull away easily? is there any stenciling? is the silk actually RAYON? is there any latex strong odor?

I would test the dyes. If they test colorfast, and the rug is fairly soiled, then I would wash the rug. Give it a bath.

If the dyes test as fugitive, then I would surface clean the rug with an upholstery tool section by section carefully, to clean it. I would use an Airpath air mover to speed dry.

I would test the fiber strength. If they test strong, and the rug is fairly soiled, then I would wash the rug.

If they test weak (easily pull away from the rug), then I would surface clean it with the upholstery tool, and if needed, place a screen over the rug sections as I clean them to keep fibers from being pulled away during extraction strokes.

I would inspect for stenciling. If I see none when I grin open the fibers to look, then I would wash the rug.

If I do see stenciling, and the rug is fairly soiled, I would STILL wash it… because the rug is dark and so ink bleeding out will not be visible on the front, but I would let the client know ink marks will show on the backing material. (Most clients don’t care what the back of the rug looks like, and I always prefer to give rugs a bath versus surface cleaning because it is the difference between taking a real bath or having a sponge bath.) Just in case the ink might bleed into the white silk highlights, I would use an Airpath to speed dry it.

I would test to see if the highlight fibers are RAYON instead of silk. If they are in fact rayon, then I know I need to be careful about scrubbing the rug, and to be extra careful when grooming after it’s dry. Rayon is a very weak fiber, and will break apart with even the gentlest cleaning.

I would pre-inspect for the horrible odor found in some tufted rugs. If the rug has that odor I would NOT CLEAN IT. This is a manufacturing flaw, tell the client to return it to the store they bought it at.

As long as you are VERY good at pre-inspection, and VERY good at carefully cleaning a rug, this should not be a problem rug to clean.

If you have any questions for me on this rug or others, please post them in the COMMENTS.

Thank you for reading the Rug Chick blog, I am always happy to see so many come to visit me here.

:)

- Lisa

Rugs That Stink.

When rugs come in our shop that are gosh-awful smelly, the usual suspects are: PETS, FLOODS, or BAD LATEX.

Rugs shouldn't smell like farm animals.

Rugs shouldn't smell like farm animals.

#1) PET PUDDLES

With pet urine, this hits a wool rug, penetrates those face fibers, and gets absorbed deep into the innermost cotton warp and weft foundation threads. Ever run for hours and take off those sweaty cotton socks?  Then you know how much moisture cotton can hold.  A LOT.

So lots of urine absorbed into the middle of your rug, it’s not good news.

Specifically, besides the odor, pet urine can create dye migration or loss that is permanent, as well as yellowing that often is permanent damage as well. (Rug owners are shocked when I explain their $10,000 rug is no longer worth that because of some puppy puddles. They would never pay full price for a bridal gown with a urine stain on it… yet they seem unaware of the devaluation from urine stains on their rugs.) It also, if left unaddressed for months, can lead to dry rot and a nice big hole where the problem is.

Surface cleaning a rug in the home with a portable or truck mount is only cleaning the surface and not the MIDDLE where the problem is. (By the way, cleaning rugs in the home, especially wool rugs, is a huge NO-NO. We will get into that in detail in a future post, right now we are talking odors only.) :-)

Rugs with odors, especially pet odors, need to be WASHED.

Urine contaminated rugs need to be soaked and washed.

Urine contaminated rugs need to be soaked and washed.

Repeat rinsing and squeegeeing to remove the urine.

Repeat rinsing and squeegeeing to remove the urine.

If you do not use thorough rug washing methods, you will not remove the source of the odor. You will lessen it. Maybe some will use a fragrance to try to cover it up (ever get a whiff of a sweaty man using cologne to hide it? yeah… it’s not much better having a “floral” pet urine smell in your rug…). These are not solutions to the problem.

Moral of the story is – pet problem, wash the rug.  And use a professional for it, otherwise the rug could have more damage done than the puppy did to it.

If you have a pet accident – some tips on what to do right now.

#2) FLOODS

Rugs that get improperly wet can get a musty, moldy odor as mildew sets in. We see this mostly with rugs not prepared properly for storage, and the unit gets damp, or has a flood.  Or, an unskilled cleaner does not verify the rug is 100% dry (by using a moisture probe) and rolls up a rug that feels dry, but isn’t.

Neighboring planters that leak are also a BIG creator of water damage to rugs, because again that innermost foundation is made up of absorbent cotton, and it sucks up that water you spill over sometimes, and it leads to mildew, dye bleeding, and over time dry rot.  I’ve seen a rug literally have a big hole crumble apart from long term water exposure. In fact, here’s one:

Rug got wet in a storage unit, and fell apart.

Rug got wet in a storage unit, and fell apart.

Rugs improperly exposed to water need to be properly washed to remove the contaminants from those foundation fibers and the face fibers. If you step in a puddle, you don’t wring the sock, wipe it off, dry it, and it’s clean enough to wear again. (At least I hope you don’t do that!) You wash it.

Same with rugs. You need to soak the rug in the proper sanitizing solution, and then thoroughly clean it. This needs to be handled by professional rug cleaners who are experienced at handling flood-affected contents, and bringing them back to pre-loss condition.

#3) BAD LATEX:

With some tufted rugs (these are the rugs that you do NOT see the same design on the back as the front because instead you see a material backing) – there can be some odor issues.

Due to a lack of consistent quality control, some latex used to hold these cheaply made rugs together can end up souring, and not be properly cured. This gives off a VERY bad smell that is best described as a combination of sweaty old socks, rubber, and livestock.

Nice, huh?  Here’s one of these culprits, a tufted rug from India:

Smelly tufted rug from India. RUN!!!

Smelly tufted rug from India. RUN!!!

When you are looking at a new tufted rug, and it smells bad when you put your nose to it, then just RUN! It is a “Rug To Run From.”

When you try to clean it to make it smell better, it will get WORSE. The water activates the odor-causing elements more.

I would say about 10-15% of the tufted rugs we see from India have this problem. And I always tell my clients to take the rugs IMMEDIATELY back to the store they bought it and demand a replacement (that doesn’t smell) or their money back. This is a manufacturing flaw.

I have read some comments from retailers that say the odor is nothing to worry about. It’s not “dangerous.”

Do you think someone might say this in order to keep people from getting refunds?

Yeah, I think so too.

Here’s what I know… when something smells really bad, my natural instinct is to move away quickly and make a really ugly face.

kinda like this....

kinda like this....

Your body does that to PROTECT you. If my nose tells me to “get away” – then I know it is harming me.

What is really scary is that many of the tufted rugs I see on the market today are made for kids. They have goofy designs on them, and some are cute… but the ones with the odors, I certainly would not want any kids around those.

Cleaning does NOT improve this odor. So watch out.

There you have it – 3 typical smelly rug sources, and a little insight on what can and can’t be done with them.

I think I’ll go out now and get some fresh air…

- Lisa

Frankensteined Custom Rugs.

That’s what I call rugs that are haphazardly designed using very different fibers or construction types in order to make a “custom” rug. Just like Frankenstein, they grab random pieces to put together the resulting monster.

Some look attractive. The question though is – can you safely clean it? Because in many cases, you can’t.

You may have a base natural fiber rug, which should be washed, but fabric borders that with water will bleed, or even worse, shrink and buckle.

Decorative fabric that will be tricky to clean

Decorative fabric that will be tricky to clean

Some custom rugs are pieced together like a puzzle, and latex or seam tape is used to hold the patchwork together. Again, it can be an attractive rug to look at, but giving it a bath can split the seams.

Seam tape holding a rug together can split with age or washing.

Seam tape holding a rug together can split with age or washing.

This means you may only have the option of a surface cleaning rather than a real rug bath, and since a surface cleaning is not as thorough as a wash (and leaves more cleaning residue behind) – you will likely have to wash the rug more often to keep it clean for your home. This is added cost that you need to be aware of if you are purchasing a specialty custom rug.

Custom rug - check the back for stability.

Custom rug - check the back for stability.

It is a shame that the designers of these rugs do not reach out more to the rug cleaners who will end up cleaning these pieces.

Sometimes a rug that is a great idea and design in someone’s mind, becomes incredibly impractical in terms of care and cleaning. For example, some rug manufacturers are creating rugs using viscose (rayon) as highlighting fibers in their design, but viscose is the worst rug fiber on the planet. It’s cheap though, and looks like silk, so they use it.

These days some manufacturers only seem to care about getting that first sale, and not whether their products are going to last a long time or simply become landfill rugs that begin falling apart soon after the sale.

And the more complicated these rugs are in terms of cleaning, the more time a professional rug cleaner will have to take to sometimes hand clean each section using different methods, which can be a costly in terms of labor hours you are paying to take proper, sanitary care of your floor covering.

If you are someone looking to buy a rug, and want a few tips on looking for quality new rugs, post a comment letting me know and I’ll email you tips I follow.

If you are a rug cleaner looking to be wary of many of the lurking problems with new rugs these days, post a comment letting me know and I’ll email you my handy one page pre-inspection sheet to train you on what to keep an eye out for.

There are some very beautiful custom rugs out there, you just want to make sure they are quality pieces that aren’t going to give you any surprises.

- Lisa

Up Against The Wall!

There are several reasons someone may want to display their rugs on the wall.

It may be a fine silk rug, or an older collectible piece in some disrepair, that they don’t want foot traffic on.

It may be that they have some dogs prone to accidents, or cats marking their territory, so they want to save their textiles from abuse (or save their pocketbooks from having to clean the rugs every other month!).

They may have a home full of wall-to-wall carpeting and so the rugs simply do not lay well on the soft floor. Or they just want to SEE the rugs up on the wall as a piece of art to enjoy looking at.

Whatever the reason, here is what we recommend: using Velcro for hanging rugs. (This is also what is recommended by the Textile Museum, along with their how-to instructions.)

Velcro hand sewn to the rug for mounting on the wall.

What I like about using Velcro is that unlike a sleeve and rod, this allows a rug to hang smoothly and evenly against the wall. The weight is evenly distributed along the strip, and because ALL rugs have some unevenness to them, you can adjust them in spots where needed.

It also makes it very easy to take the rugs down for regular dusting, or if there is a wildfire fast approaching (something I’ve experienced myself in San Diego) you can run through your house and grab your old rugs quickly and jolt for the car.

Fringe can hang loose or be tucked under.

The rug sets smoothly against the wall.

It is important that the Velcro strip is attached BY HAND on a handmade rug. Using a fine, strong needle and upholstery thread, you can slide your stitches in between the warps and wefts of the rug so you are NOT structurally altering the rug in any way.

A sewing machine cannot move inbetween foundation fibers so it powers THROUGH them, and causes damage to the foundation of the rug. If you go hogwild with the sewing machine you can almost perforate the rug, leading to the edge tearing away and off over time.

It is a rule of thumb that machine repairs should NOT be executed on hand woven rugs.

New fringe, sidecord serging, or velcro – all should be done by hand not machine on real rugs (i.e. hand woven rugs).  Commodity area rugs, like tufted rugs, or machine made product, then there is no risk of devaluation with machine repairs because there is not much “value” there to take away.  And, some have such a heavy construction (sometimes using latex and adhesive) that the ONLY way to repair them is by machine (or a glue gun).

Speaking of glue – do NOT attach Velcro to rugs with glue either. Pretty please. :)

If you want to enjoy looking at your rugs up on the wall – then this is the way to go! Velcro!

- Lisa

This Rug Stinks.

I am not the biggest fan of TUFTED rugs. Simply because I appreciate the art of a woven rug crafted by hand,versus the mass-market production of tufts of wool held together by latex and covered up on the back with material.

It’s cheaper to buy a tufted rug than woven, because of course the labor is a fraction of the time, but you also get what you pay for – a rug that lasts several years versus decades (or centuries) … a rug that is many times “disposable” because they simply do not last long. 

And definitely not a rug to hand down to your children.  But maybe you don’t mind that. You might be looking for something that looks nice, and maybe you have pets so you don’t want an investment piece of art on your floor, so it may be that a tufted area rug is exactly perfect for your needs and budget.  I can understand that.

But what happens when the new tufted rug you bought stinks?  I mean, literally STINKS?  Like this one:

Some tufted rugs from India smell like dirty old socks and rubber.

Some tufted rugs from India smell like dirty old socks and rubber.

Tufted rugs from India are getting a reputation for smelling bad. There appears to be a flaw in the curing process of the latex holding the rug together that off-gases an awful smell.

The purchaser may get a great deal on the rug and think that this can be washed to smell better – but they would be wrong, because the odor actually WORSENS with moisture. As of this date, none in my network has come up with a solution to this problem except to turn the rug away as uncleanable.

Some of these problem rugs have white material backing, and many I have seen have the blue backing shown in the photograph above.  In my experience all have been from India, but not all India tufted rugs have this problem.  And it may be that China or other countries produce tufted rugs with this particular problem, I just have not experienced it in anything other than tufted product from India.

What do you do?

When you go to buy a tufted rug, you grin open the fibers in the store and you SMELL the rug.  If you notice a strong blend of dirty old socks with old tire rubber, then you have a problem.  Do not buy the rug.

If you have recently bought a tufted rug, have closed up your house for a trip, and return to the strong pungent smell that makes your eyes water, then return the rug to the store.  This is a manufacturing flaw, and the rug should be replaced. Then the retailer can ship it back to the factory and insist that they improve their manufacturing process.

And if you don’t want to deal with any potential odor problems like this, then buy a rug that is woven and does not use latex or glue to hold it together because it has been crafted beautifully by hand and does not require any adhesive to keep it together.

- Lisa

How A Hooked Rug Can Hang You.

There is a horrible tendency by some contemporary American Hooked and Chinese Hooked rug manufacturers that is angering not only new rug owners, but also rug cleaners who try to serve these owners.

The rug looks innocent enough. Attractive, nice colors and floral design. Here is a hooked rug from China, typical looped construction on a mesh foundation, with a light latex and material backing.

Decent quality hooked rug - but EVERY one needs to be inspected.

Decent quality hooked rug - but EVERY one needs to be inspected.

The horrible tendency I am referring to is to stencil a rug’s design in heavy ink before beginning their hooking process. And the nightmare waiting to happen is when water touches this rug.

You see, though good rug dyes can be stabilized during the wash process in order to give the rug a good thorough cleaning, INK cannot be stabilized. And as some rug manufacturers become lazy in their quality control, they are using these inferior methods unaware of the problems they are creating in the goal of cutting corners.

Here is an American Hooked rug, just a few years old. It’s white and brown, with the brown testing as “colorfast” so a rug cleaner would then move ahead to properly wash it. But if you grin open the loops and look closely, you can see a problem waiting to be unleashed.

Dig deep into this rug to see the manufacturing flaw.

Dig deep into this rug to see the manufacturing flaw.

That is PINK ink that has been used to stencil the design elements of this hooked rug. Sometimes blue is used, or yellow.  The problem is this is not permanent ink or dye, it is unfortunately water soluable.

The question then arises – if it is not permanent, how can you clean it?

The answer is – you can’t. Take a look at what happened to this rug, properly washed, but with the rug owner and the rug cleaner unaware of the rug’s fatal flaw.

Rug maker cutting corners = disposable rugs

Rug maker cutting corners = disposable rugs

If you’ve ever gotten ink on fabric, you know that is can be next to impossible to remove it, especially a lot of it. So you can look at this photo and see that this rug is heading to the landfill.

What could the rug cleaner who handled this rug have done differently? He dye tested, but the problem was UNDERNEATH the wool loops he tested. The only way he could have discovered the disaster looming in front of him would have been to pull open the loops enough to see the mesh it was hooked on.

By seeing the ink that lay right below those loops, his option would have been to turn the rug away as uncleanable, or to offer a surface cleaning to try to remove some of the soil from the surface of this rug without allowing any moisture at all to the foundation mesh with the large amount of ink in it.

If you’ve ever tried to wash your hair with no-rinse shampoo, then you have an inkling of what the results of cleaning  a rug without a good wash process is. There is a high level of residue, and the agitation on a Hooked rug of scrubbing without water as a buffer can lead to fuzzing, pilling, and shedding.

The recommended process for cleaning rugs is a wet wash. Rugs have been given a bath for as long as rugs have been woven. Yet, this fatal flaw in some contemporary Hooked rugs means they cannot be properly or thoroughly cleaned.

If you have a rug on the floor for years, with feet, shoes, and paws walking all over it – wouldn’t you want to clean it? Of course you would. But in these cases, cleaning it the right way will ruin it.

Rugs with this type of stenciling in heavy ink make them a RUG TO RUN FROM. Buyers should look closely at the foundation of these rugs before paying good money to purchase them. Cleaners must look closely at these rugs to make sure they do not lose a rug – and a client – by simply doing their job.

This problem also occurs with some Tufted (material on the back) rugs. Tufted rugs can be stiffer construction, and harder to determine if stenciling exists. If there have been some spills on the rug, and PINK or BLUE ink is visible on the front or back in that spot, then this is a warning sign.

This tufted rug was in a flood damage, and you can see the pink and yellow ink throughout that has bled into the material backing.

Ink on the back of a tufted rug involved in a flood.

Ink on the back of a tufted rug involved in a flood.

Because you sometimes cannot know for certain if this stenciling exists on a Tufted rug, I suggest that you dry these rugs face down if you see any ink that becomes visible at all during the wash.

This will make the dry time longer, so use additional air movers (I love the Dri-Eaz Airpath for this faster drying). If the ink wicks, by being face fiber side down the ink will absorb into the material backing and away from the front of the rug. You cannot guarantee to keep all of the ink on the back, but you will have a higher likelihood of having this happen.

If you are a professional rug cleaner, what do you tell the owners of new American and Chinese Hooked rugs, or these Tufted rugs?

You can tell them that a certain percentage of these rugs have heavy stenciling in ink and that this is a manufacturing flaw. If you can identify the stenciling, and it appears to be heavy, then recommend to the rug owner to return the rug for one that does not have this flaw (or a milder version of it).

Let them know that if any ink appears during the cleaning, that you will quickly finish your wash process and will extract and dry the rug face down in order to direct the ink to the backside of the rug. Let your client know that there may be ink on the back when you are done, but you will do all you can to keep it from the front side.

If your client is too nervous to have the rug cleaned, then they have no choice but to keep the rug thoroughly vacuumed, and soon buy a new one to replace it. Not cleaning a rug after several years is not an option, because it is unsanitary to wait longer than two years to clean a rug under normal use.  Fibers of rugs (and carpeting) act as filters for the home, and just as with air filters, when they are full then need to be cleaned or replaced.

It has been my experience that about 10% of the hooked and tufted rugs I’ve seen have had this flaw of heavy ink stenciling. Many of these you may plan for a worst case scenario and not have a problem at all with.

Better to prepare for the worst. And if you see the glaring warning signs, let the rug owner know immediately that they need to return the rug because it is one to run from.

- Lisa

Stop Making Waves…

Rugs are meant to be on a HARD surface.

But, for some reason, Americans love to put their rugs over SOFT surfaces. I’m not sure why. Probably the same reason they jump on their beds – because it’s BOUNCY! :)

There are ramifications to the rugs though, when weight is placed on a pliable rug. A lot of foot traffic, or heavy furniture, will bend and stretch the foundation fibers of a woven rug, especially if it is not tightly woven.

If you can picture a stretched out sweater, and trying to get it back into its original shape, you can have a sense of the situation I’m talking about. It loses its shape.

When the rug is tufted (with a latex backing) the problem can be magnified if the rug does not have a solid foundation floor underneath it.  Just take a look at this rug due to heavy furniture over years:

Tufted rug + heavy furniture + carpeting underneath = RUG MESS!

Tufted rug + heavy furniture + carpeting underneath = RUG MESS!

This problem here is not reversible. You may be able to get it to find its flat shape again with a wash AND putting it onto a hard floor to get trampled back to a flatter version of itself.  It might get better, but it won’t be new again.

For a tufted rug to lose its shape, well, I won’t lose sleep over that. Tufted rugs are quick made “real” rug knock-offs. They are commodities.

But a handwoven oriental or occidental rug, something that took months, or a year to weave, that is a real loss.  It’s a piece of someone’s life on the floor, and if placed over a very soft floor with any furniture on it, you are causing damage to the rug.  It might be slight, or it might be severe. Either way you should do something about it.

One answer is of course move it to a hard floor. Another answer would be to get a sturdy pad for under the rug (you need to try a few to find the right one for your setting).

Waves are not only a sign of a rug problem, they are also a safety concern.  So take a look at your rugs and see if any adjustments need to be made.  It’s good for the rugs, and good for you too.

- Lisa

Tough To Dry Tuft!

Basically you have two major groups of rugs – woven and tufted. The easiest way to identify one from the other is that on woven (whether by hand or by machine) you can see the design on the back side. Tufted you don’t.

Okay – that’s not an absolute truth, but pretty close. When I get a frantic “save my butt” call from a cleaner across the US asking me to help them with a rug that’s gone bad on them, and I can’t see it, I need to know first – is it woven or tufted?

It doesn’t matter to me whether it’s from Turkey, China, Morocco, or Toledo – most times they can’t tell me that anyway – but it does matter to me what kind of CONSTRUCTION the rug is. Especially with tufted, because this is a rug where the face fibers are glued in place. Actually, latex adhesive is used. That’s why the back looks like this – mesh with latex.

Typical Tufted RugQuite a number of times you will see a material covering the back of these rugs. This is for several reasons – 1) because the latex looks ugly; 2) because some latex is poorer quality than others and can crumble and make a mess; and 3) because the latex can cause problems (yellowing) to items underneath it (like the living room carpeting you are putting the rug on top of).

There may be other reasons for this… but that’s my list, and this is my blog. :)

A big problem with some of the heavier tufted rugs after you’ve given them a bath is – DRY time. If you do not have a climate-controlled drying room, or a wringer to remove the excess water before the dry time even begins, then you are looking at a long dry time. Days in fact, especially in humid conditions.

But one tool we tested recently in our rug plant helped dry time ENORMOUSLY – the Dri-eaz Airpath.

Side by side testing, same construction types, one rug took just under two days (regular air movers used) and the other rug took under half a day.  If you have a small operation, and are looking to boost your productivity, but cannot afford a drying room or wringer – then I would highly recommend you grab several of these.  In fact, if you are a Piranha Member you can get the best purchasing deal in the industry through our Buyers Group (just log onto Piranha Central for details).

Dri-eaz Airpath: Rug Chick tested! Rug Chick approved! (My team LOVES this air mover.)

Studebaker Airpath by Dri-Eaz

Studebaker Airpath by Dri-Eaz