Rug Shop Set-up. (The mother of all equipment posts.)

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The most common question I get from professional carpet cleaners (besides “oh God, can you help me save this rug!”) is this => “What rug cleaning equipment should I buy?”

And my answer is always the same.

It depends.

Are you doing rug cleaning as an occasional add-on service, or as your primary service? Are you expecting to wash 5 rugs a week, or 500? Do you have a trained team to support larger volume?

What amount of space do you have? What kind of capital do you have to sink into pouring a wash floor and getting larger equipment? What equipment do you already own free and clear? Are you picking up and delivering?

How much do you really enjoy rugs? Is it a passing fad (like the other equipment you just sold off at the last carpet cleaners swap meet…) – or do you want to truly be a Textile Pro?

Are you a rug enthusiast? =)

I have helped more professional carpet cleaners start up into the rug cleaning craft successfully than perhaps all of the other trainers lumped together. Here’s why.

I had a distributor friend of mine who has hosted four IICRC courses (taught by others) over the past 2 years poll the students to see how many were TODAY actively cleaning rugs full-time as a result of the class. The answer… THREE. Out of almost 100 who attended and got “certified.”

That is sad. But it’s also a sign of uncertainty. If they did not leave the class confident about cleaning rugs (or even knowing how to GET the jobs), it makes sense they would stick to their prior comfort zone. Rugs can be scary if you don’t understand them.

That said, I can point to Piranha Members and Rug Secrets alumni of mine all over the US, Canada, and overseas, who are actively cleaning rugs and growing their rug cleaning companies.

So why are my “students” not quitting? It’s the same reason you are reading this blog post. Because I make “sense.” I teach in a very clear style. And when you understand something, you TAKE ACTION on it.

I also have a very clear understanding on how to be smart about growing a rug cleaning company. I’ve seen enough people do it wrong and crash and burn, and I don’t want to see that with any of the cleaners and restorers I work with.

So instead of pushing them into some huge equipment lease package (that I may or may not get a kick-back from…LOL) – I am very conservative with them. I show them low-tech options to build their skills in (and make sure they LOVE rugs…), and then graduate up to cooler, pricier options when they are ready.

So…with this post I am going to throw out every tool option to come to mind on how to properly set up YOUR rug cleaning workshop. Bookmark this post, because you are going to come back to it. And I’ll organize it from “low tech/small money” to “high tech/BIG money” so that you can truly choose what is best for you in your current financial and space position.**

(**My disclaimer** – I am listing options for your information, this is NOT an endorsement by me of any item in particular. I will tell you what we actually use, but that does NOT mean this is the *best* choice – it’s just what we use and like. Anything not shared does NOT mean you shouldn’t buy it… it means perhaps I don’t know about it. And of course everything in this blog, and all of my blogs, is my opinion only. I know a lot, but I do NOT know it all. It’s because there is a lot of misinformation out there about rugs that I’m sharing this. All suggestions require trained cleaners - so please don’t be a *rug idiot* and see a rug wet and think any rug can just simply be dunked with no consequences. Education is required and should be invested in before the equipment.)

Most Important Factor => The Rug Cleaner not the Rug Cleaning Equipment

We began our washing process in the back sloped cement driveway of our antique rug gallery in sunny La Jolla, California. We kids were “rug brats” who climbed the stacks of rugs like the Himalayas, and helped scrub rugs by hand outside with our parents – just like a car wash (wax on – wax off!!!). It was fun, it was low tech, and the results were great.

A garden of rugs...

There are very large automated rug cleaning plants in Los Angeles, couple hours north of us. A thousand rugs a week going through them. Very little prep work, just feed it on the treadmill, every rug exactly the same. Like an automated car wash…you can end up still with dirt on the side doors or caked on the windshield.

Now – I can guarantee you that I can out clean one rug versus the big operations in LA, because I would be focused on creating the best result possible. It would take me several hours…but I would out clean them in quality, even with low-tech tools (a vacuum, bucket of suds, hand brushes, squeegee, cool water, a wet vac, and white vinegar to stabilize the dyes and rinse). My “boutique” rug operation could have stellar results… but only be able to do a few rugs a day. It would be more labor-intensive.

I would be the “car detailer” versus their “”automatic car wash” – and just like real detailing gets me $125 versus the $9 drive through wash – I would be able to attract investment rugs to care for by my expert hand.

The best LARGE rug cleaning operations are a combination of these two styles, with the care/attention of a boutique workshop on the wash floor BEFORE and AFTER it is fed through the automatic rinsing/wringing process. I can name a half dozen operations in my head across the US that have that level of quality. Unfortunately, for as many great large operations as there are, there are not-so-great ones too.

My point though is this – larger equipment options do not automatically equal “best” cleaning. You can have best with low-tech. It falls more on the care and attention to detail of the RUG CLEANER, and not the rug cleaning equipment.

What the equipment does is this – it allows you to perform wash process steps more efficiently. And being more efficient allows you do get more done in the same time.

So my advice to those getting into the business is start low-tech, and move up as you grow. I’ve seen several friends sink a fortune into large equipment and space, thinking “if I build it, they will come,” and then go out of business.

The rug cleaning business is a growing opportunity – but it is not “easy” money. It’s hard work. (Business owners are not afraid of hard work…as long as it’s something they really enjoy.) So you better make sure you are crazy about rugs before you dive into the deep end.

Here are the main steps of the rug wash process – and some different equipment options/ideas for you.

DUSTING EQUIPMENT

SMALL bucks => Vacuum Cleaner

Vacuum back of rug to "shake" loose soil.

If you already own a good beater bar vacuum, then this option is “free” for you. By dusting the back side of the rug, you shake/vibrate loose the embedded soil in the rug. As you saw in the last blog post on “Why rugs are not cleaned in the home” – this is a VERY important first step to proper rug cleaning.

We use commercial Sanitaire upright vacuum cleaners, with the brushes in the bar replaced with metal slide in plates, because the “bristles” are not needed. They are super sturdy, and work great, so we’ve never needed to “move up” to bigger, louder equipment here. However, our clients value their rugs and keeping their homes clean so they wash them regularly, and don’t let them get caked up in abrasive soil and contaminants.

Placing rugs over tile grates or mats can help elevate rugs so that more soil can shake loose and away from the rug. I did a Google search for “interlocking plastic floor tiles” and came up with a wide variety of colors and strengths. This can be used for a dusting platform, as well as to place in a wash pit (if you do not have a wash floor poured yet…) to allow water flow under the rug, and to keep you from slipping. =)

>>>UPDATE<<<

A few of you have contacted me asking about the metal slide in replacements for the brushes on the Sanitaire vacuums, and that you have had problems finding these parts. I’ve been told to contact Jon-Don and ask for Fernando, and he knows EXACTLY what you are looking for. You also can get a narrower design brush which works very well for dusting/vibrating rugs from the backside – we use the Sanitaire Alumimum VGI-12″ Brush Roller for this. Let me know if you have any other questions on this. Or Google that word “Sanitaire Aluminum VGI-12 brush” to see what it is. Thanks!

>>>End Update<<<

BIG bucks => mini-DUSTERS, compressed air dusting, large dusting machines

There are two portable “mini” dusters out right now in the US. I’ve only used one, the Rug Badger:

Rug Badger removed soil by beating the back of the rug.

Straps "smack" the back of the rug.

I know a number of cleaners who own a Rug Badger and are very happy with it.

The other mini-portable duster is the Wolverine by Centrum-Force. I do not know anyone personally who owns one of these, it’s a new piece on the market that looks very similar to the Rug Badger, but blue instead of red. The price for both competitive units runs around $3,500.

I also came across another company building mini-dusters in Greece. (Many long established rug cleaning operations purchase their large and small rug cleaning machinery from Turkey and Greece – which makes sense because many rugs are woven there, so they require these machines to wash the rugs before they are sold.)

A bid I received for this particular unit, which has a roller on the front to hold the rug down securely (they are sending me photos of the rest of the construction) – was $2,000 for one unit (lower pricing for more) => HANTA Systems mini-DUSTER

With international freight costs, this might not be cost effective, but I wanted you to be aware of all the options I have seen.

Another option is the compressed air dusting system which is part of the overall Auserehlian Oriental Rug Washing system, which incorporates a large inflatable wash pit and several proprietary tools to create a “jacuzzi wash.” Phil Auserehl and Ron Toney are the “pioneers” of the rug bath system we see in many cleaning operations today.

Air dusting with the Auserehlian method.

Air dusting is a very thorough method. Obviously good containment is required, and a good compressor to power it. It’s my understanding that you buy the complete system, and not just the “dusting” tool ala carte.

Large automated dusters, where you feed in a rug to be beaten as it is rolled through a system of straps, also are available.  Here is one by Centrum-Force that shows the straps along top.

Automated dusting machine on display at trade show.

Now obviously, if you are looking to purchase a large dusting machine in excess of $40,000, you better be handling a good number of rugs. Larger plants handling hundreds a week, use machines like these to handle their volume without skipping the all important step of dusting BEFORE the wash.

Other suppliers of large automated dusting machines and links to their specific machines are => HANTA Systems (Greece) and TankMakina.com (Turkey).

There also are second-hand large equipment from long-time companies closing their doors, so you will see some Mor equipment available. This was a long time builder of large rug/carpet machinery in Illinois. Though some of his pieces also look very familiar when compared to these Greek and Turkish suppliers, so I do not know if Mor manufactured his pieces from ground zero, or if he ordered parts from Europe and assembled them in the US.

Today it seems that “parts” are mostly made overseas. I know my “American” car is made of European parts. My friend’s German BMW was built in the US, with German parts, but is considered a German car. So I would not be surprised if there are a few core suppliers of main components for many rug washing companies, because with this large equipment, they all look very similar. But, that is simply an observation I could be 100% wrong on.

Those are your choices – low tech to high tech.

WASH/RINSE EQUIPMENT

Small bucks => D-I-Y Wash Pit*

(*Before you get ANY rug wet, you better know what you are doing. Be sure you are fiber testing, dye testing, checking the structural integrity of the textile, and using the proper cleaning chemistry and techniques to safely and thoroughly clean the rug. All photos shared are from experienced plants and experienced cleaners.)

First off, if you have an existing sloped (and clean) surface, with an ability to capture the water so it does not go into the storm drain, you may not need a “pit” at all. Depends on what you have.

But a pit can be as low-tech or high-tech as you want. A simple tarp with some PVC pipes with elbow joints to make a pit is the lowest-tech way.

 

 

Low-tech D-I-Y wash pit.

I’ve seen others made with wood planks and using a heavier pond liner for the rug (you can get pond liner at www.pondliners.com). You can set up these systems for a few hundred dollars in materials.

Medium bucks => The rug instructors pits-ready-for-you packages.

In past rug workshops I’ve taught, we used a wash pit that had an inflatable perimeter:

 

 

Small wash pit with inflated sides.

These types of wash pits I’ve seen sold by two companies => Masterblend (tied to the IICRC course taught by Aaron Groseclose) and Rug Badger (tied to the IICRC course taught by Ruth Travis & Jeff Bishop). Depending on the accessories you buy, I’ve been told by students in the classes that you can spend several thousand and get the basics taken care of.

The tiles used often in the bottom of these types of wash pits, to help elevate the rugs a bit, while also keeping the surface from being too slippery, can be found by Googling “interlocking plastic floor tiles.” Here are some I found in at just two sites I came across in my search, Rubber Flooring Inc. and Cart Wheel Factory.

I have also found pits with inflatable sides prevalent in the automobile mobile washing industry, where water containment is extremely important, and tough material as well with all of the rough surfaces it comes in contact with. This might be another area to research.

I found this car wash mat for $538 on Amazon (they sell EVERYTHING!) => Mobile Car Wash Mat & Containment

You can Google “mobile car wash mat” to find more choices and styles.

The wash pit from the Auserehlian system is much more “serious” with larger side walls, and sturdy inside tiles. The other systems I’ve seen on the market are kind of a toss up between paying for them, or just building it yourself – but not with the Auserehlian option. They build some nice pits. Again, it’s my understanding that this is part of a complete system and that you cannot buy the pit ala carte.

 

 

Large size wash pit with system for fresh water exchanges.

BIG bucks => Inclined Wash Floor, Automated Rug Wash Machinery & Tubs

When you graduate from washing rugs in a temporary wash pit and decide to pour a wash floor and acquire some “higher-tech” tools, the biggest cost is not pouring an inclined floor, it will be in running the drainage, and actually having the SPACE to do that in the first place.

There are many ways to construct your floor. Here is one floor where the area doubles as a place to pull in vehicles at night. You can see the trench along the lower half of the slightly inclined floor to capture the water flow.

 

 

Squeegeeing a rug on the wash floor.

Here are several other wash floor set-ups:

Scrubbing a rug on the wash floor with rotary scrubber.

If using a CIMEX machine, use SOFT brushes on rugs.

Soft brush head on fully wet rug.

Your brush choice depends on the structure of the rug and how wet you have it (water acts as a buffer to rotary machines). Most large rug facilities have a variety of brushes from rotary scrubbers with soft brush heads, to hand broom brushes (like window washing brushes), to small hand held brushes.

After washing, the rinsing begins, and this can also be done by an assortment of tools, from running clean water underneath a rug and using a squeegee – or a linoleum roller – to help rinse away the suds and soil.

Squeegee being used to rinse away the suds.

Or using a pressure washer to do the same:

Pressure wash rinsing of rug. Watch the pressure!

Slow pressure washer rinse of rug before placed in the wringer.

These methods so far are scrubbing and rinsing on the wash floors, but there also are large rug washing machinery that can do the scrubbing and rinsing in a conveyor belt type “automated car wash” set-up. Though as I mentioned before, the best of the largest rug cleaning companies tend to do “individualized” prep work and cleaning on a wash floor BEFORE they feed the rugs into this type of machine. And some of these facilities turn off the scrub brushes to only use them for the massive rinsing capabilities.

Large automated rug washing machines are sold by several large manufacturers => CarpetWashingMachine.com and TankMakina.com are two of them. You can also find a whole host of manufacturers on Alibaba.com, where you can request bids and get references and additional information on participating companies. Several of my large rug plant peers have used this site to coordinate their overseas purchases.

If you Google “carpet washing machine Turkey” you will find a list of options if you are building a serious rug cleaning facility with serious volume.

There are also rug washing tubs that have come to market. Actually, they have been around for some time, primarily for blanket and quilt washing, but have recently been marketed as for “rugs” as well.

One is made by Centrum-Force => Rug Washing Tub

Another is made by Tank Makina => Washing Paddle Wheel Tub

I am not personally “sold” on the wash tub concept, especially since they appear to be developed for quilts and blankets, and not specifically “rugs.” But I will see what several of my peers who have purchased units from Greece and Turkey have to tell me once they see my post here. =)

WATER REMOVAL EQUIPMENT

Small bucks => Your EXISTING equipment.

If you already have a cleaning company, you have tools developed for extracting water. Your wand (ideally with Teflon covers to keep from marking any delicate surfaces):

Using a Water Claw (medium size) on the BACK side of the rug can help remove the moisture from the innermost foundation fibers, which tend to be cotton and hold a great deal of water. Many cleaners who start up do this – roll the wet rug on a PVC pipe or plank of wood, and tilt it up against a wall so the weight of the water flows down and away from the rug. After just a few minutes, they lay the rug out to extract the BACK side with a Water Claw, and then follow up with the wand.

The Water Claw portion can take time, so when funds allow (or if you do any restoration work you may already have this), you can add a Dri-Eaz Rover to your equipment. Running about $3,500, this allows you to ride and extract, and the smooth heads leave NO marks on the rug whether you do it on the back side of the front.

Using a Rover for extracting water.

I have also used an Xtreme Extractor successfully, but have also seen it mark up a rug, so if using that tool, be sure to only use it from the back side. Runs closer to $4,000 – what’s weird is that I saw that price on Amazon. (Again – Amazon sells EVERYTHING! LOL.)

These are good intermediary options, about a tenth of the cost of additional large water extraction machinery. So when you are looking to bump up your production, and are ready to invest $30-50K on a piece of equipment to remove water from rugs, then you are ready for this next batch of options.

BIG bucks => Wringers and Revolution/Centrifugal Machines

Back in “the day” (*ahem*… before my time…) – we had manual wash tub wringers. Cute ones like this:

 

 

Small hand-crank wash tub wringer for clothes.

For rugs they became much bigger, and pneumatic:

Large rug roller wringer.

Today roller wringers are generally found only second-hand. The trend today is more toward centrifugal wringers which “spin” the excess water out of a rug, similar to your washing machine spin cycle for your clothes. These are called centrifuge wringers.

Two US companies selling these are => Rug Badger Revolution which is a footed stationary model and Centrum-Force centrifuge spin extractors.

The prices all range from $30K – $50+K depending on size and of course leasing added interest. But if you have the volume – and the funds – it is a way to dramatically boost your production. And as mentioned in the very beginning, make sure you have rug training because you will need to know which rugs may structurally be at risk so that you can make adjustments as needed to the controls.

I also found a whole host of centrifugal machines on Alibaba’s website. => Carpet Wringing Machines

Tank Makina has both footed and wheeled models => Centrifugal Spinners

CleanTem Machines I got a bid of $7,500 for this unit (finding out the freight and custom fees to get a more accurate full ticket price) => Centrifugal Machine

Hanta Systems in Greece also had several models, as well as videos on all of their product options. (By the way, if the sites do not show English you can click the flag for US or UK to make that happen, or Google has a translator plug-in. Using Alibaba as your portal helps if you get confused on any of these websites – but they are fairly easy to navigate, and to get bids and details from.)

DRYING EQUIPMENT

Small bucks => D-I-Y Hand Pulley Rack System

I’ve seen a lot of make shift rug hanging set-ups. This, like with the wash pit, can be as low-tech or high-tech as you want. You can build something for a few hundred dollars, or go drop $30K or more on a pre-made, electric hoist system for several dozen rugs.

 

 

Low tech rack with pipe around it to prevent creasing.

Manual pulley construction with wood planks.

We dry many of our rugs out flat (for various reasons), but have a pulley rack system to hang a few rugs as needed. We use both Dri-Eaz LGR dehumidifiers to control the humidity in our wash facility, and I am a HUGE fan of their Studebaker AirPath air movers.

 

Yes, I'll admit it... I love the Airpath for speed drying!

We also use their Sahara air movers, just as this D-I-Y guy who created a very creative drying platform for this Kerman rug being washed out of his home. Here is his “speed dry” system for drying his rug out flat (warmer weather helps!):

 

Rug is sun bathing out flat. (Be careful of sun fade.)

BIG bucks => Electric pulley large dry rack systems.

Some large rug cleaning facilities have climate controlled dry towers with 100+ racks in them, and warm air to dry the rugs quickly. If you have the space and the volume, then this may be your choice. Or you may hire a local company to custom build you a system to fit your needs. We paid a local engineer to draft a pulley system that met weight and safety requirements, and had it made out of wood. But again, we dry most of our rugs out flat, so it is not an elaborate rack. This may be more of what you are looking for, a metal mechanized pulley dry rack system:

 

Large dry rack system.

Both small and large drying rack systems are available through Rug Badger and Centrum-Force.

The Mother-of-all-Rug-Equipment-Posts is DONE!

I have to say…not only did this take much longer to write than planned…but I did not realize I had so many options to share with you all until I started writing.

I hope this gives you a lot to think about and research in setting up your own rug cleaning operation, and doing it in a smart – and successful – manner.

If you have any questions, or additional ideas for items I missed in this overview, please post in the comments. If you have photos to share with me of “your” set-up, I’d love to see them. Please email them to me at rugchick@gmail.com.

Also – many of the links I referenced as hyperlinks in this post go to specific detailed pages (not simply their home pages), so you can see exactly what pages I was looking at as I was researching specific items.

I hope you found value from this. Now when I’m asked “Lisawhat should I buy...” – I have a BIG post to send them to in order to come up with their own perfect “educated” answer.

- Lisa

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Why rugs are not cleaned in the home.

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The recommended cleaning method for wool oriental and specialty rugs, is washing them.

For as long as rugs have been woven, they have also been washed. Though in the past with a bit more “low tech” methods than are available today.

Rugs being washed near a river.

But before the washing even begins – the beating does!

Let the beating begin!

Rugs – ESPECIALLY wool rugs – have a capacity to hold a large amount of soil in them. This is because wool under the microscope looks kind of like fish scales, so lots of layers, with MANY places to hide dirt and grit. See, take a look:

Wool strand under a microscope.

It’s these many “little pockets” that hold soil, and why a wool rug can have POUNDS of soil in it and still not look especially dirty. The dirt is hiding. And not just dirt and soil, but a whole host of other contaminants. Look at what came out of this rug by vacuuming the back side of the rug with an upright beater bar vacuum:

Pounds of soil out after dusting the rug on the back side.

This rug below also, shows the soil from using a heavier dusting machine (a Rug Badger):

Pounds of soil "beaten" out of a rug before washing.

There are several reasons why cleaning rugs requires them to be removed from the home. The big one is of course the removal of this soil before cleaning, and then the actual washing of the rug itself, which simply cannot be done with standard carpet cleaning machines (a portable or truckmount). Those are considered surface cleaning and not washing.

In fact, here is the latest cover story of Cleanfax Magazine, where the specific reasons why choosing to clean a rug in the home can cause more harm than good. This is information every professional cleaner should know, and certainly what their clients need to know regarding any rugs they value:

CLICK HERE => The Dirty Truth About Rugs

Dirty Truth About Rugs

I am not saying that rugs can just be tossed in water with no worries. You do need to understand what you are doing. We get calls regularly from homeowners who thought they could hose down their rug, and then discover that this can lead to dye bleeding, buckling or shrinking, and incredibly long drying times.

That because those “tiny pockets” that hold soil, also can hold a lot of water molecules too. Wool rugs get HEAVY when wet, and the inside fibers are absorbent cotton warps and wefts that swell with water, so you need to have the equipment capable of removing that level of moisture so that the rug can be properly and thoroughly dried quickly.

Some rug cleaning operations are more “workshop” operations instead of high-volume rug cleaning facilities. I guess you would call them “boutique” rug operations. They wash the rugs one at a time, and have some equipment to help them be more thorough in the dusting, washing, rinsing, and drying processes.

They may use a large wash floor to wash the rugs, like this:

Persian runner being washed thoroughly.

Rug being rinsed thoroughly. Can't do this "in" the home.

Some rug cleaners have not poured a wash floor yet, or don’t have the space to, and so they use wash “pits” to give rugs a bath in, like this:

Small rug wash pit.

I have one skilled rug cleaner friend who owns a “pit” for a handful of his clients who will now allow their highly valued rugs to leave the premises, so he sets up a cleaning system on their property and washes them on premises in their back patios.

This still takes him several days of follow-up visits for dusting, washing, drying, and finishing time, and requires additional equipment brought in for extracting the water and airmovers to dry.

(FYI –  the Rover is excellent for removing water from a washed rug without any marks and the Studebaker Airpaths are fantastic to help speed up drying times).

These particular clients he charges multiple times his in-plant washing price  versus if they allowed him to clean them properly (and more conveniently) in his rug plant… but sometimes you have to build the “wash system” to make sure investment rugs are properly cleaned. What he does not comprise on is “surface cleaning” when he knows they need to be cleaned right. So a wash pit in the backyard!

In the mobile auto wash industry, they sell inflatable wash containment “pits” that can be easily used for this type of on-location more thorough washing or in your facility if you do not have an inclined wash floor for cleaning.

Here’s one I found on Amazon for less than $600 => Inflatable Car Wash Containment

Ideally though you have a proper wash floor, and bring in larger equipment to help boost your performance and production as you grow. Some of this equipment is a sizable investment, so do the best with what you have and grow when you are truly ready to, and can afford to. I’ve had several friends sink several hundred thousand dollars into opening large rug cleaning facilities, and then go under before they had time to enjoy their new business.

But before you run out and buy any cool new tools for yourself, invest first in the proper rug education and training, because as I’ve highlighted in several recent blogs I receive rug cleaning disasters weekly from both cleaners and homeowners on rug cleaning that has gone bad. The wrong methods, cleaning solutions, temperature, drying conditions, as well as poor rug construction, can lead to rug disasters.

In an upcoming post I’ll share some of the options for different tools and equipment you can use, based on different budgets, to get your rug shop set-up properly. There are LOTS of options for you.

I’ll also be giving you some direction on getting more experience and education in this craft.

My goal is to make sure professional cleaners (and rug owners!) know how to best care for woven rugs, and give them the best information and resources to make that happen.

All my best,

Lisa

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Rug-Eating Bugs. What to do about them.

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I’ve been getting a lot of emails lately on bugs eating rugs – so I thought I’d share some tips for both rug owners and rug cleaners.

Moths ate the wool, left behind the cotton foundation.

The two biggest wool rug culprits are moths and carpet beetles.

Moths: rug enemy #1.

Carpet beetle: rug enemy #2.

For some more extensive ways to get rid of theses critters from your home, visit this site for moths, and this site for carpet beetles.

For rugs, there are several steps you can take to keep the bugs from digesting your oriental rugs.

VACUUM REGULARLY

These bugs like nice, quiet, undisturbed places. You will generally find them doing their dirty work under the corner of your sofa, behind a drape, along the cracks in the planks of your wood floor, or on the back side of a rug hanging up still on your wall.

You do not need to “beat” the rug with your vacuum, just give it a good once over on the front every few weeks, and flip over the corners to see if there is anything to be wary of. Moth larvae looks like sticky lint and they do their damage when they emerge from those cocoons HUNGRY.

I like to run my vacuum upholstery tool over the back of the corners of my rugs, just to be safe, and once a quarter I completely vacuum the back side of my rugs to make enough chaos to have bugs look for another place to feast.

For rugs hanging on the walls, at least once a quarter take them down to vacuum. If they are delicate you can use the upholstery attachment instead of a beater bar or super-sucker type vacuum. Because of this needed maintenance for hanging textiles, this is why we like to suggest using velcro to hang rugs – it makes it easy to take down and put back up.

WASH REGULARLY

Rugs under normal to heavy use should be washed annually.

This means sending them out to be washed in a rug cleaning plant, and NOT having them just surface cleaned in your home. (BIG difference, especially if you are trying to avoid bugs.)

If you have moderate traffic on your rugs, and you vacuum at least every other week, that wash time can be extended to every 18-24 months. But longer than 2 years, you are asking for trouble. Not only from the abrasive grit that gets lodged into the base of the rug fibers (which is what causes areas to wear down faster), but also in regards to insect activity.

Washing helps dislodge bug activity and remove it. And for rugs with a big problem you are looking to solve, and you do not want to soak the rug in pesticide poisons, washing and giving the rug a vinegar rinse will help physically remove the bugs and their problem-causing ways.

FOR STORAGE – ALWAYS WASH BEFORE WRAPPING UP

Rug cleaners rarely offer “mothproofing” these days because those solutions are pesticides that kill things, and for something you may have your kids or pets rolling around on, that’s just not safe.

Even the odorless insect repellent solutions that professional cleaners have available and are not poisons still have some irritation risks. (Always read the MSDS to evaluate whether you want to use a particular product that requires leaving residue behind.)

But if a textile is going into storage for years, it is best to make sure you are not going to open up the package and find a rug disaster, so using a repellent is wise unless you are putting the piece in a cedar chest, or using other items that tend to discourage moths.

When I put something into storage, I don’t want to worry about it, so I use a repellent.

The most important step though is the wash and making sure you are not wrapping the rug up with any unwanted pest guests.

If your rug does have a visible insect problem right now, while it is out to be professionally washed you will need to bring in a professional cleaner to tackle your wall-to-wall carpet or your hard floors, wherever the problem rugs were, so that you can remove the rest of the problem.

Hot water extraction (“steam cleaning”) can take care of the problem in your carpeting – something the EPA lays out guidelines on for how often you should have this done as posted on the IICRC website.

To sum up, rug-eating bugs are kind of like unruly teens. They like to go hide in their space, and they don’t want you to bother them.

So you need to pull open the curtains to let fresh air and sunlight in, clean up their surroundings so they escape the fright of it all, and make a routine of that so you don’t end up with bigger problems down the road.

Your teens will come back (hey, they need to eat…), but the bugs will move on to another place with a less attentive rug owner in charge.

- Lisa

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Good equipment + bad training = RUG DISASTER

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A really BIG franchise carpet cleaning company brought us a rug to “fix” for them.

They are “certified” – they hired the southern contingent rug training duo to teach them the IICRC course – so they were able to memorize the facts to pass the test… and they bought the products the instructors were selling… but it appears that perhaps they did not come away with “knowing” and understanding proper rug care in terms of heavy equipment on more fragile rugs.

For one thing… they mentioned the rug had already been properly “pit” cleaned by their instructors’ process.

Here’s a shot of one area – that by the way still STINKS:

The "clean" rug from the competitor still stinks.

Using a pit for cleaning is WAY better than surface cleaning with other methods (portable or truck mount) – but when you are dealing with a rug with dyes that are NOT colorfast, and you are NOT knowledgeable about how to clean rugs in that circumstance, then you do it too quickly from fear – and it does not come out being free of the contaminants… which is why this rug still smells.

There is still dog urine in it.

This company does a good volume of rugs, always has, but their target market is more those who are looking for the cheapest rug cleaning, versus the best care for the rugs. There’s a difference.

Some rugs are very inexpensive and the owners are not looking for specialists. They have a coupon. But sometimes people who have valuable rugs may not know it.  So though this company handles a lot of the commodity rugs out there, they do get “real” oriental rugs through their doors, and some of these we see…sometimes after things have gone wrong.  We get their “uh-oh’s.”

And this one was indeed an uh-oh… but not from the pee-pee.

Take a look:

When badgering goes BAD.

This Turkish rug was brought in with several very large tears in it.  It is a strong woven rug, and we pulled on the torn areas to see if it was weak from dry rot or any other reason – nope, it was strong as can be.

But all of these torn areas…?!?  So my mother asked what happened, and their technician answered…

“It was BADGERED.”

Now, the Rug Badger is a dusting machine that BEATS the heck out of a rug to pound dirt out of it. This makes the wash process more thorough…but you have to be VERY careful with using this equipment on textiles.

The straps turn around and beat and beat, and it can pull up the edge of a rug, and BAM – this happens:

Long tears along the bottom half of the rug.

Now… my mother can repair this. It will take a bit of work, because it is 7 tears all along the bottom, each about a foot in length, but the cuts are clean cuts.

But what makes me mad is that these technicians feel confident about handling woven oriental rugs, because they have an IICRC patch, when they are simply not ready to be handling hand-woven rugs with very limited book-learning knowledge.

They provide inexpensive in-home cleaning of wall-to-wall carpet, but they believe in a few days of a sit-down test that they can now be “oriental rug specialists.” They in fact advertise this service (as do many carpet cleaning companies who specialize in in-home wall-to-wall carpeting but not natural fiber woven rugs).

I don’t fault them for trying to make more money by offering more services to their customers, and actually, there are more rugs to clean than skilled rug cleaners – so it’s a good specialty to get trained in.

It’s just if they are going to do a SPECIALIZED service, they should spend some time to REALLY learn it.

There is a myth in the rug cleaning industry – and in cleaning wall-to-wall carpet – that it is ALL about the equipment you use.

But in reality, it is the PERSON behind the equipment that is more valuable.

I can take a bucket of shampoo, some vinegar, and some hand brushes, and because I understand textiles and their care VERY well… I could out-clean a rug versus a person with a fully mechanized rug plant with hundreds of thousands in equipment.

In fact, this weekend in Las Vegas, I build a very rudimentary wash pit, and cleaned one of the most dangerous rug bleeders out there – a bright red Afghan wool rug – and did an excellent job with tools that were not made for “rugs.” But with the right cleaning solutions to stabilize the dye, the right shampoo, and keeping an eye on the process, several students and I got that rug washed and dried and looking fabulous.

Anyone else, with no understanding of the basics of rug cleaning, would have ruined that rug.

Why could I with low-tech tools be able to out clean a high-tech operation?

Because I understand what I am working on, and I have the attention to detail that would make the difference. A big difference.

It’s like the difference between running your car through the $7 car wash at Chevron, and getting a $200 mobile car detailing where every inch inside and out is sparkling.

This rug disaster is a crime.

It’s what happens when you put good equipment with bad training and give them a good rug to clean.

This is not the Badger’s fault – it is the operator’s fault. He should have been more aware that a soft woven rug like this could not take the beating.

I shouldn’t complain, because it’s a rug repair invoice, so it’s technically “business”… but it just irks me that these classes taught by instructors who have NEVER run a successful rug cleaning operation can mislead their students into thinking that EVERY rug is a piece of cake to clean, and that every piece of equipment can be equally applied to every rug.

There must be adjustments, and these adjustments come from understanding what you are working on, and predicting disasters BEFORE they happen.

For those of you who own Rug Badgers – please pay attention.  If you have a flexible wool rug, and you get too close to the edge, you run this risk here.

I personally do not have a Rug Badger in our plant, not because it is a bad piece of equipment – it can be a good time saver for smaller operations.  I just prefer the control of a Sanitaire vacuum, and it works well for us.  I’m not a big fan of aggressively beating natural fiber woven rugs.

I warn my students that sometimes this heavy equipment can risk structural damage. Besides this “badgering” – I have also seen the Centrifuge spinner unit split the backing foundation of a machine woven rug because it went too fast.

Just be careful and attentive. And ALWAYS check the foundation of the rugs closely for existing dry rot or structural problems BEFORE you beat the heck out of it.

- Lisa

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The care and feeding of Karastan rugs.

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Karastan has always been known as a provider of high-quality machine woven wool rugs that replicate many classic Persian oriental rug designs.

Woven in America, made of high quality materials and construction. I’ve seen Karastans from the 1930′s still in very good condition.  In fact, we had an older one come through our shop a few weeks ago, and it had an interesting – and outdated – care tag on the back.  Right here:

Karastan rug care tag - be careful!

Karastan rug care tag - be careful!

Here’s a blog I wrote over on our San Diego Rug Cleaning Company rug repair blog - with a point by point blow of the tag in question.

As Karastan has begun importing product from China, you can no longer say that it represents high quality in machine made product. For some unknown reason they have decided to create some blended rugs with wool and viscose, and as all frequent readers of The Rug Chick blog know – viscose is the worst rug fiber to ever choose for your home.

When you read the label description, let me know, was there anything in it that you were also surprised to see in print as “recommended instructions”? Am I the only one surprised?

- Lisa

P.S.  Heads up – rug cleaning workshop upcoming on August 6-7 - get your seat before it SELLS OUT!

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Shaggy leather rugs.

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I’m seeing a number of these rugs coming to market. I refer to them as shaggy leather rugs.

Rug made of leather strips.

Rug made of leather strips.

Couple things to know about these rugs if you are buying one, or are cleaning one:

1) Pets LOVE these. And there is a tendency to have pet puddles on them as a result.

2) Many have SIZING on them to make the strips of leather “stiff” – and this sizing is not permanent.

3) The colorful strips (reds, blues, and blacks typically) can bleed when given a wet wash.  Test for this.

So, if you do happen to have pets in the home, or the rug gets fairly dirty, you will need to get the piece washed to become clean again. This means the strips will likely become limper, and the overall rug not as “peppy” as when you first bought it.

If the rug does not have heavy soil because it is vacuumed regularly (on this type of tied-together strip construction, do not use a regular vacuum, I’d suggest a canister vacuum) – then a professional cleaner may opt to actually clean those strips of leather by hand with leather cleaning products.  This hand work will take a very long time, and would have a sizeable cost because of that labor.

Another interum way to “pep” the piece up is to take the rug, flip it upside down (with helpers), and shake the heck out of it.  (This also works fabulous for shaggy rugs like flokatis.)

This helps release grit, dust, and fuzzies that have lodged into the base of this rug, and will pep up the leather strips for a short time.

These rugs are kind of cool though. 

I would not use them in a high traffic area.  And, if I had pets, I’d probably not opt for this choice. The rugs are pricey to begin with, and having to wash it frequently because of pet accidents or dander odor, would make it an even pricier investment.

Just a few things to know before you buy one… or before you decide to clean one.

- Lisa

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Repair Your Rug Right.

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The most common repair needed by rugs in our town (and EVERY town with rug owners) is END repairs.

With hand woven rugs, when the fringe is torn or worn, the knots of the rug start to slide away and off.

You rug starts slowly shrinking, and gets shorter and shorter.  Like this:

This end is unraveling and losing its wool knots (back side view).

This end is unraveling and losing its wool knots (back side view).

Once a knot has pulled loose, you cannot resecure it… it is lost FOREVER.

That’s why when your fringe gets VERY short, you need to pay attention.

The value of your rug is in those tiny little knots. You want to keep them in tact. But sometimes when you try to do good and grab some wool and thread, you might actually cause more damage than good.

Fringe is too short on this rug, this repair won't hold.

Fringe is too short on this rug, this repair won't hold.

This rug has fringe that is way too short, and you can see someone’s attempt to tie off the tassels is actually sliding off, and pulling some knots with it.  Too little too late.

An attempt at darning the edge is doing nothing to secure this rug.

An attempt at darning the edge is doing nothing to secure this rug.

Another attempt at trying to use a whip stitch to darn this end is doing no good either. By pulling that thick wool through the foundation to try to hold the edge together, the person has actually loosened those rows of knots and this edge will pull apart sooner as a result.

Good intentions, bad results.

Sometimes you take your rug to someone who decides that using an industrial serging machine to machine repair the edge is a good option. This also is a very BAD choice.

Do not machine repair a hand woven rug. It damages the rug, and it's ugly.

Do not machine repair a hand woven rug. It damages the rug, and it's ugly.

This is heartbreaking… a sewing machine happy idiot decided to machine repair a hand woven rug. Not only is the color choice ugly, but this type of machine work causes structural damage to the rug that cannot be reversed.

The reason hand woven rugs are repaired by hand is so that the Rug Repair Specialist can slip the needle around, and inbetween the foundation fibers (warps and wefts).

A serging machine does not go around fibers – it powers right through them, over and over and over again.

Over time these repairs will tear away, and pull away inches of the rug that could have been saved if it had been repaired by hand.

If you are talking about an investment textile, the more inches you lose, the more value you lose. Simple as that.

When this machine repair tears away, the rug will need to be reduced further to provide enough warp length to anchor a solid repair with. (Remember those VERY short fringe tassel stubs up top in photo #2? You need more length than that to hold a good end repair in place.)

What does a good end repair look like? There are several styles, but this is my favorite – an overcast stitch:

Properly executed end repair overcast stitch. Strong and long lasting.

Properly executed end repair overcast stitch. Strong and long lasting.

Your stitch should use a strong upholstery thread that will not get brittle over time. Your stitch should vary now and then to lower weft threads so that the tension of the stitch is evenly distributed so it will not unnecessarily pull the edge loose.  Your buttonhole stitch, flat along the top, should be close to the outermost weft thread to hold the edge tightly in place.

Many rug repair facilities, like ours, guarantee their overcast repairs for the life of the rug. This is because, when it is done properly, it should never need to be done again.

Now… if your vacuum cleaner sucks up and tears off the edge, that is a different matter. There are no guarantees to help someone not paying attention. :)

If you have a hand woven rug, and the edge is unraveling, make sure the repair is done by hand.

If you have a rug cleaning facility, and want to know some rug repairs that you can do without having to be trained by a rug repair specialist, be sure to opt-in for the Simple Rug Repairs Report I’ve made available. The opt-in box is at the top of this blog, over to the right. Enjoy!

- Lisa

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Dust or Bust!

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I often receive questions about vacuuming rugs from rug owners, asking if they should vacuum rugs, and if so how to do it.

First of all, YES – rugs should be vacuumed. If any of you have hard floors in your home, then you know how often you need to sweep and dust because of the constant fine layer of contaminants that settle into your home.

This grit settles on rugs also, but because you do not notice it, this can work its way into the base of the fibers of your wool rug and it creates abrasion that can cut those fibers.  This is why rugs wear down in spots.

So it’s important to do a regular “dusting” of your rugs to take off that top layer of settled dust and bigger pieces caught in the fibers from shoes, feet, and paws. Even rugs hanging on the wall will have a layer of dust on them.

For weekly vacuuming, you do not need an abrasive beater bar vacuum.  A better choice is a canister, or setting the beater bar at a higher level so the bristles are not continually brushing against the fiber.

I like to vacuum with strokes across the width of the rug rather than the length, because with one move you might accidentally suck up the fringe tassels into the vacuum. (If it’s a canister, no problem, but when tassels get tied up in the beater bar they can tear off.)

When a rug has not been vacuumed regularly, then the dirt embedded in the base of the rug can be too lodged in to release, so you need a little more help.  Back in “the day” these rugs would be hung up and beat with a rug beater to whack the dust out.

Most of us do not have this as part of our cleaning routine. :) So here’s another option with your regular upright vacuum cleaner. Vacuum the back of the rug to “shake” out the soil from the base – like this:

Run the vacuum slowly along the backside to shake out soil.

Running vacuum along the back of a rug can shake out pounds of soil.

A wool rug can hold several pounds of dry soil in a square yard before it “looks” dirty. It’s not uncommon for us to pull 5-10 pounds of soil from a large rug just from vacuuming.

This is a great attribute of wool, it acts as a fantastic air filter, grabbing soil from the air and hiding it in the small scales of its fibers, and the rug will still look good.

The negative of this is that rug owners tend to wait until their rugs look dirty to get them cleaned, and by this time there can be pounds of soil in that rug causing damage to the fibers.

Have you ever had a tiny rock in your shoe, and how even when it’s very small it drives you crazy because it hurts? This is what happens with a rug, these tiny little rocks get lodged in the fibers and when you walk on that rug it cuts and scrapes the fibers.

This is why dusting is so important – to help extend the life of your rug. And if you are thorough, you can even extend the length of time needed between professional cleanings.  How often should you clean your rugs? That depends.

Rugs need a good bath!

A rug under regular use should be washed every 18 months. If you have pets or lots of kids, or high traffic on the rug, you want those fibers free of contaminants more often, so annual cleaning would be a smarter choice.

Washing the rug removes the contaminants from the entire rug – it’s the most thorough way to clean rugs, as well as the most gentle.

Rugs can live for centuries, and can be handed down from generation to generation … especially if you care for them enough to care for them properly.

- Lisa

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Bugs – Do Not Eat My Rugs!

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Moths and carpet beetles like to munch on wool rugs.

But they are not the only culprits. If you do not keep your rugs clean, and there are food spills, or drink spills, you can attract insects who are eating the “food” but also the wool that has absorbed it.  Like a shish-kabob for bugs!

Since many rugs have a COTTON foundation, which these bugs do not eat, most moth or carpet beetle damage will look like this – empty spaces of white cotton foundation threads peeking out at you.

Areas of a Wilton rug where the wool has been eaten away.

Areas of a Wilton rug where the wool has been eaten away.

Wool-munching bugs like dark areas without much air circulation. This means you will tend to find their “activity” on the underside of a rug, or behind a large drape, or under a sofa, or on the backside of a textile hanging up on a wall.

It is important, especially if a rug has been in place for 6 months or longer without much activity to make sure that bugs are not making a feast of your rug. When you are vacuuming a rug (ideally with a canister vacuum – little abrasion so you can do it weekly), be sure to flip over the corners and sides and run the vacuum head over the edges to pick up any LINT that may actually be larvae. Moth eggs do sometimes resemble sticky lint, so you want to keep an eye out.

By creating air flow under the rug, and moving it around, you can dissuade bugs from making a home there. You can also set smaller rugs out in the sunlight (face down) for a half hour to hour while you are cleaning the underneath flooring. This open air and sun will also make unwanted bugs get the heck out of Dodge and move to the next home.

Pulling down hanging rugs and vacuuming the back of the rug is very important, especially if you have tribal pieces such as American Indian weavings. These pieces tend to have “tastier” unprocessed wool for bugs, and with some (such as pieces from Morocco), there can be wool that has not had as thorough a cleaning process before being exported and so they may have carried over some of their own indigenous insects.

Wool is an incredible fiber. It is strong, it is dyed vibrantly, it is incredibly environmentally friendly because it is a renewable resource.  People love wool … and unfortunately so do bugs.

Wool is also an AMAZING filter for the air because it can grab and hold dust and grit, pounds of it, and still look clean. When you wait to clean your wool rug when it looks dirty, you are already months behind the ideal time, and that packed in grit causes abrasion that makes your rugs wear down. Think of a tiny rock in your shoe, how the tiniest one can drive you nuts. Now think of thousands of tiny little rocks rolling in those wool fibers that you are walking on – that is why rugs can wear down over years of misuse.

Running vacuum along the back of this rug shakes out pounds of soil.

Running vacuum along the back of a rug can shake out pounds of soil.

Wool rugs can last for CENTURIES under the right conditions – which includes regular dusting (vacuuming) and washing.

 And your best protection against BUGS?  Have your rugs regularly cleaned. This not only makes your home environment cleaner, but removes unwanted guests in your wool fibers before they begin causing real damage, AND removes the grit that causes rugs to wear down sooner than they should.

By having the rug sent out for a bath, you can thoroughly clean the rug and have it come back residue – and bug – free. You can apply “chemicals” to try to mothproof the piece, but these are poisons, and are only appropriate if you are packing the rug away for years in storage. An insect repellant is a safer choice, if you must have something applied because your home is prone to moths and carpet beetles.

The safest option of course is to simply clean the rugs regularly, and vacuum them regularly, which is better for you, your family, and your home anyway.  And… no chemicals you have to worry about your kids and pets crawling over.

I like residue free … it just makes life cleaner and simpler.

- Lisa

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